Telephone:    01604 753 823                              Fax:   01604 590 059                           E-mail:   info@parrotcentre.com

INTRODUCTION

There are many types of parrot all requiring different diets, accommodation and care. It would be impossible to cover all of their varying needs in this one care sheet which is meant as a general overview and is no substitute for a good book and further research on your part.

It cannot be stressed enough that owning a parrot is a big responsibility and not an undertaking that should be taken lightly. Owning a parrot will have a similar impact on your life as owning a dog and will live twice as long and so please think carefully!!! Parrots are very intelligent birds who mostly live in flocks, so will constantly seek out company and explore their surroundings (often with their destructive beaks).

CHOOSING A PARROT

If you are taken by the amazing beauty of birds but your work and family commitments are considerable, then think about a pair birds in a large cage or even an aviary in your garden.

If you want a companion pet, make sure that it is hand-reared.  Aviary-bred and parent-reared birds rarely tame down and will be very difficult to bring around.  Ask to handle the bird before you buy it.  If it doesn’t like you from the beginning, it may never like you.  It’s also the best way to find out if it’s tame or not.  Be wary of second-hand birds, they won’t necessarily take to you just because you care for them. The younger you buy your bird the better – ideally it will be only just weaned.  It will be easier to bond with and it won’t have any bad habits already.

Research the behavioural traits of each species, some are more demanding than others and their needs may not suit your lifestyle.  Consider the noise factor, some species, such as conures and cockatoos, are much noisier than others.  Will your neighbours complain or perhaps one of your family works shifts!!!  Think about your family dynamics, how will a parrot fit into the group. Young children and certain species of parrot are not always the best companions and some species would thrive better on a one to one relationship with their carers.

THE CAGE

The size of the cage will depend on the species but a general rule for sizing is that it should be one and a half times wider than the parrot’s wingspan and should be as big as possible!  Parrots of all sizes have very strong beaks and the cage should be strong enough to withstand constant chewing, ideally made of a non-toxic metal, coated with a lead free paint that is unlikely to chip.

Plastic coated cages are not ideal as the plastic is easily chewed. The range of cages here at the Parrot Centre have been especially selected to meet the above criteria.

Think about practicalities, is the cage easily cleaned, are the food bowls accessible and easily cleaned, are there enough food bowls, will the cage minimise mess outside of it (parrots are very messy eaters).

The cage should have hygienic flooring, we recommend wood chippings as they are not dusty, are easily spot cleaned and non-toxic.

The cage should be positioned in good light, but NOT direct sunlight as they could over heat even on a winter’s day. It is also a good idea to have at least one side of the cage facing a wall so that the parrot can have a sense of security within its own space.

U.V. lighting should be considered, as there is evidence to suggest there is an improvement in the birds feel good factor along with vitamin A and Vitamin D3 benefits.

Parrots are very sociable birds and should be positioned in a room where they will get maximum interaction with the family. We should point out at this stage that the kitchen or dining room is not a good place to keep a bird. Apart from hygiene implications cooking fumes, increased heat, and fluctuating humidity can cause health problems and even an early death.

Ensure that the parrot cannot reach anything from within its cage as soft furnishings and even the plaster will be chewed or shredded.

One of the biggest killers of birds is drafts, so ensure that cage will not be subject to them from doors, windows, vents and even open fireplaces.

Perches should be of varying thickness to exercise the bird’s feet. Natural perches are generally the best. They should be made of a safe hardwood, willow or from fruit trees (not ornamental cherries).  You should have one concrete perch to keep his nails trim.

Toys should be provided to keep your inquisitive bird occupied. Toys can be expensive, as they need to be made of durable materials so think about the toys and their function. The best toys are made of a variety of materials, which will give the bird different textures to explore. Toys that get the parrot thinking and working are also good such as those, which reward the bird after carrying out a task. The toys at The Parrot Centre have been chosen in consultation with parrot experts. Buy a selection of toys and rotate them so the bird stays interested in them, don’t pack the cage with toys so the bird cannot move!!

DIET

Again this is dependent upon the species being kept and the diet the bird has been reared on, but the age-old saying “you are what you eat” also applies to parrots.

The basis of the diet should be a good quality complete food whether in form of a seed mixture or an extruded diet. There are many brands and mixtures available on the market but you get what you pay for and there are many poor quality mixes available that consist mostly of sunflower seeds and peanuts which are fattening and will not give your parrot a balanced diet. We stock a wide range of foods and supplements, which have been researched by the manufacturers and come on recommendation from our breeders. Fresh fruit and vegetables should form a large part of the diet, not just because of the nutritional benefits but the variety, tastes, colours, shapes also stimulate the senses.

Fresh water should always be available.

Parrots require a calcium source, which is vital for the development and maintenance of the skeleton, feathers, beak and nails. The calcium can be obtained from a correct balanced diet but can also be gained from supplements. The diet should include supplementation of vitamins approximately once a week usually in the form of a water additive.

Treats can be given and there are a wide range of manufactured ones available which can be used but take care to look at the ingredients. Fruit and vegetables can also be used, as well as small pieces of cheese, cooked chicken, dried fruits and sprouted seeds. In general food treats from the table should be avoided and certainly any processed human foods which contain refined sugars and fats.

Hygiene is of the up most importance to minimise the risk of infection or cross contamination. Obviously fresh fruit can be messy and will go off quickly so the food should be monitored and changed or replaced before it does. Food and water bowls should be kept completely cleaned using a veterinary cleaner or even washing up liquid, but ensure the bowls are thoroughly rinsed afterwards. Keep pet and human food bowls separate as some diseases can be passed between us and our pets.

PARROT PROOFING

When allowing your parrot freedom from its cage you need to think about its safety. You will also want to protect your belongings from a parrot who will see anything as a toy.

Obviously ensure that nothing poisonous is left lying around, this means cleaning products, certain houseplants, scented candles etc.

Most of the larger parrots will recognise glass but some of the smaller ones will not so think about net curtains or blinds to define the window areas to prevent injuries as the bird flies towards the glass.

Make sure that fires and heaters are protected and rooms with gas fires should be well ventilated.

Look out for other everyday hazards such as sharp objects, hot drinks, and small objects.  Parrots will chew through wires and electrocute themselves if you let them.

You will also need to think about open doors and windows as most parrots are migratory birds and will gone before you know it. 

Foot chains should never be used as they can mutilate the bird. A good way of restraining your parrot is by training it to be harnessed, which will also allow the bird to travel with you. All of our parrots are wing-clipped.  It prevents them flying into windows, it counteracts their migratory instincts, and it helps to keep them tame.  Please ask us to explain the benefits of wing-clipping further.

SO YOU STILL WANT A PARROT

You have read this fact sheet, done your research and you are ready to get your new companion.

Try and collect you parrot early in the day so that he or she has as much time as possible to settle in. It is always a good idea to have the cage already set up before you bring the resident home to minimise stress.

You will need a travel box (a cat carrier works well) to transport you bird home, this will also be useful for future journeys. Make sure that you take a direct route home, again to minimise stress.

Once the bird is home, put it directly into its cage and leave it to settle in. Try and keep contact to minimum for 24hours but carry on with the usual domestic routine so the parrot can start to settle in at its own pace.

Start interacting with your new bird gradually, don’t let the whole family crowd round the cage which will stress him or her. If you have other pets introduce them gradually and do not leave them unsupervised.

The next few months will be an exciting time for you and your parrot as you learn about each other, set boundaries and above all have fun!

The staff here at the parrot centre will be happy to help you with any of the above from deciding on a species all the way through to taking your parrot home and even helping you settle it in and providing after sales advice.  Many parrots end up in rescue centres every year because of irresponsible dealers and owners and it is our aim to promote responsible parrot ownership.

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